BLOGS

In the 'Kothi'


17/6/2014

Kothi village, close to Manali, is one of the most picturesque places in the world. Summer mornings in Kothi are bright and sunny and breathtakingly beautiful. On one such morning, we set out to see Kothi village. However, we were not tourists wanting to click pictures and have fun. Our motive was to really understand these villagers and learn how their lives have changed over the years, being so close to one of the hottest tourism destinations of India.

On the way to the village, we first came across a herd of about 60 cows and bulls. Two shepherds were grazing them on the grassy slopes of the mountain. On speaking to them, we learnt that these animals collectively belonged to the villagers, and the shepherds were paid to graze them. This was not the case earlier, when the villagers themselves took turns in grazing their animals. Also, with the decrease in farming land and loss of interest of the villagers in growing food for themselves, the number of bulls required for farming had considerably decreased. The villagers sold the extra bulls at community fairs for a pittance now.

Further downhill, we found a timber house with a sheep tied at the front gate. A lady came out to greet us. It was extremely surprising for us when we learnt that she was pursuing her B.Ed. degree and desired to take up a job later on. She let us in on a number of notable changes that had happened in the village in the past 25 years. We came to know that at one time, shepherding was the major activity of mountain people in the village, along with growing crops on the limited fertile land that they had. However, most people were now employed in the tourism industry downhill at Kullu and Manali and that provided for an easy buck. The villagers had since sold off all their animals at Mandi and very few practiced farming and cultivation. Almost all the food grown was for their own personal use now.

Another villager mentioned of a large scale fire that had engulfed the village more than 20 years ago. The fire had started due to short-circuiting of an electric line and spread to all the huts made of timber and straw. Since then, most of the families had switched to concrete and brick houses, with modern toilets and infrastructure. All these building materials were imported from outside their village. Hence the village, which was at one time self-sufficient, was now dependent on neighbouring cities for building material, construction expertise, food etc.

A lot of the traditional practices of herbal medicines, home-made wines etc. were being lost. A lady mentioned that the younger generation no longer prefers home-made stuff, they are more attracted to imported wine and beer, branded clothes etc. Traditional dress had lost its prevalence in their society and it was mainly used to attract tourists into trying them out and clicking pictures for a sum.

A beautiful anganwadi school with about 10 primary school kids was a treat to our eyes. The kids were full of youthful energy and scrambled about us, asking to be clicked. They sang some local lores on our request and danced to some filmi songs too. These kids studied 4 subjects as part of their course - Maths, English, Hindi and Environment (Paryavaran). They had their mid-day meals and washed their dishes themselves On our way, we drank water several times, the spring water that is sourced from high up in the mountains. The water was so fresh and cool and teeming with minerals, and all houses had taps outside their gates and anybody could drink from these. Infact every house had a collection of firewood outside their house too. One of the villager told us that this was all community property, and anybody could use the firewood from any house. What a way to live and share! Village disputes were alien to these people.

The best part was the feeling of equality between men and women. There are dowry customs on both sides of the family, and none is made to feel inferior. Property is equally divided between sons and daughters. However things are now slowing changing with the penetration of tourism. As one woman in the market-place pointed out, that her husband was an addicted drunkard and often beat her after returning from work in the tourism sector downhill. It is sad to think that such behaviour is now slowly creeping into their society, from being in touch with the outside world..

One of the more educated village-men told of the protest put up by their village against the ski-resort being planned by the Ford family in tandem with the government. They mentioned how their water would get polluted with all the chemicals that would be used to make 'artificial snow', how the mountain land which holds so many minerals and ancient herbs would be ruined. And how they, the village population, would be reduced to mere employees in the extensive resort.

After talking to all these villagers, we were humbled to a great extent. Their simple, honest, violence-free and pure lives touched us to the core. We felt ashamed to be part of a civilisation that is ruining life for all such communities, with our extensive thirst for exploitation of natural resources, and disregard for the fragile ecology existing in such pristine areas.

By - Shanoo Priya Garg